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There was a quite distinctive atmosphere to this trek - V calls it “death and ambition”. The allure of Everest has led scores of people, from experienced mountaineers to rich tourists who wish to have a “guided climb” much like a package tour up the mountain, to attempt her slopes. Even blind people and amputees attempt Everest, and it sometimes feels like a bit of a rat race - to be the first something-or-other to climb Everest. The price for such lofty ambitions has been death for some 180 or more people. Every climbing season sees some deaths, and we heard about at least three during our 17 day trek. Two Korean climbing guides plunged to their deaths. One Nepali woman, a very famous mountaineer who was only 34 years old, fell while descending Lhotse (the mountain next to Everest). She was a national hero, and her funeral was a media circus held in Tengboche monastery. We didn’t stay for the funeral but we did witness the scene when her body was flown in by helicopter. The monks were waiting to receive her body at the monastery, and the plaintive music of the Buddhist horned instruments were playing in the background. Her family was waiting by a small stone monument, which we suspect was her tombstone, and they wept and sobbed when her body was dropped off.

Helicopters are used a lot in the valley to ferry supplies from Namche to Base camp, or rich mountaineers back to the airport, but also operate as rescue helicopters. Every time you hear the buzzing of a helicopter overhead you are never sure if they are just doing a cargo run or if someone has become seriously ill or died in the valley or on Everest.

At a solemn spot on the way to Base camp, one climbs up a steep hill to be greeted by a proliferation of stone cairns and monuments to those who have lost their lives on Everest. The scene is reminiscent of a graveyard, yet has a certain sad pride and dignity about it - like the monument to a 63 year old climber who died two years ago, his motto “Always Aim High”. It’s a slightly chilling but somewhat touching scene.